What Fences do I need for my dog?

 What size kennel should I build?

 What signs should I display?

 What type of leads and collars do I get?

 Can I let my dog off lead in public places?

 Are electric collars OK or cruel?


 
Even if you have a friendly dog you still need to protect the public, for example if the dog gets out he may cause a car accident or cause damage to other peoples property. Most local councils will not recommend a standard dog proof fence because if a dog jumps over and bites a person the council can be liable. If you have a 2 foot high fence and the dog can’t get out then it’s dog proof, if you have an 8 foot fence and the dog jumps out then it is not dog proof. Council will advise to abate the problem so you are fully responsible for keeping your dog in.
The standard height for a good fence is 5 to 6 foot tall, you may have a dog proof 3 foot high fence, but a person can be bitten by your dog if he leans on the fence. On the base of the fence it is recommended that it is concreted to stop the dog digging out. If this cannot be done you can use a roll of chicken or dog wire at least 3 foot wide. At the base of the fence nail or crimp the wire as you roll it out flat along the ground. The wire can be picked into the ground and cover the wire with dirt, stones or mulch. Dogs will try to dig at the base and it is unlikely that the dog will try to dig out 3-4 foot from the fence line. This is also a good system for chicken coops and aviaries.
 
If your fence is 3 foot and you wish to extent the height to 6 foot the cheapest way is to use a roll of dog wire or sheets of rio. Each 3 meters place a 8 foot star picket hammered in to the ground 2 feet. Roll the wire securing it to the top of the fence and star pickets. To extend gates use heavy duty mesh cut to shape. You can also use an electric wire run along the base of the fence secured on insulated picks and continue to run it along the top of the fence.
 
It is important that the yard you have your security dog in is locked. A barrel bolt on the inside of the fence on all gates including personal and car access gates. If the gates are not locked and a person opens your front gate and gets bit, you may be liable for a compensation claim.
 
As a final precaution contact in writing your local service providers such as Gas and electricity companies and advice that they need to make an appointment for the service call.
Go to the Download free guard dog signs page for all your required signs.    
 
 
What size kennel should I build?
 
The size of the kennel will depend if it is a holding pen for the dog for about an hour or if he will spend days locked in. The size should be at least 2 meters by 4 meters, at the back of the kennel should be a roofed area and raised off the ground for ventilation. The height of the fence should be at least 6 foot and preferably part or fully covered. It is best that the flooring is concrete or otherwise use river stones. When you have bathed your dog you can use the left over to splash the kennel to keep ticks and fleas at bay.
 
A common spot for a kennel is at the side of the house by building two fences in between the side of the house and boundary fence. A gate can be put on each side so it is accessible from the front and back yard. You can also use a guillotine door for convenience. Use a 2 foot by 2 foot piece of marine ply and slide it over an opening in the fence slightly smaller. Secure the wood to the fence with two z shaped rails 4 foot long so the wood can slide up and down. On the top of the wood secure some marine cable or rope and run it up the wall and across the roof with 2 small rollers. You will be able to call your dog into the kennel from the other side and with the cable close the door behind the dog.
 
The gate should be hinged with heavy duty hinges and a spring on the gate which keeps it closed and automatic self latching. Have two latches on the gate, one at the height of 2 foot and the other at 5 foot. This is a safety precaution for children. If the sides of the kennel is mesh or chain wire then use shade cloth to cover, this will provide extra shade for the dog and stop persons putting hands through the wire.
 
Water bucket can be secured off the ground, I recommend a goat feeding tin that you can get from the local produce store.
As a final tip if the dog has the run of the front yard after hours, place a tie out chain near the front gate. This is so you can secure the dog whilst a visitor can get to the house or if you are moving a car out of the yard.
 
What signs should I display?
 
This is a guide only as local laws will change from country to country. It is recommended that you speak with a legal adviser for correct and up to date information.
If you have an aggressive dog and do not have any signs displayed warning the public of the unseen danger, this may be considered a man trap. On the other hand if you display a sign on the fence stating you have an aggressive or savage dog this can be seen as an admission you have a dangerous dog. So if a person gets bit you have already admitted liability.
 
Using warning such as “Dog on Patrol” or “Beware of dog” will give the balance of warning the public of the unseen danger and not admitting liability.
People may have a right to walk into your yard to knock on the front door however if your front gate is padlocked they have no right to enter a locked area by jumping the fence. You can also give the person reasonable means to contact you by having a buzzer or intercom at the front gate. A good sign to place on your front fence is “Warning dog on patrol, entry by appointment only and upon own risk.”
 
As a responsible dog owner you will do all possible to ensure the safety of the public from your dog as you have your dog secured behind a dog proof locked enclosure. You have a bell so they can access you, you have warned them of the danger. You have stated entry by appointment only and upon own risk. People that put these signs up will find that they get no more door to door salesmen and visitors blow their horn or call on the mobile from the front gate.
 
For a locked secure area such as a business or the back yard that no one has the right to be unless invited in use a sign like “Danger Restricted area, dog on patrol, all access strictly prohibited”
 
If you take your security dog in a car always ensure the dog is tied down, a easy way is to slam the lead in the back door and pass the rest of the lead back through the window. To stop people trying to pat the dog use a window plastic lattice vent or keep the dog in a transport kennel. If you have the dog on the back of a ute {pick up} secure the dog with a tie down behind the cabin in the centre. Place signs on all sides of the car or pick up warning the public of the danger. Eg; Security patrol dog, keep clear or K9 unit keep clear.
Go to the Download Signs for Free page for all the signs and info.
 
 
 
 
 
What type of leads and collars should I get?
 
All the equipment you use should be high quality, it would be irresponsible to have a patrol dog and weak leads that may snap.
Choke chains:
When getting a check chain for your dog make certain it is high quality chrome plated links that are all individually welded and preferably with a swivel. The cheap chokers are crimped and dogs can easily snap them.
 
Collars:
A leather collar at least one and a half inches wide with heavy duty buckle and ring would be the minimum requirement. The buckle should be on the end of the collar and ring part way down. If the dog busts the leather the ring will still slide whilst the buckle is still secured. When working a dog on a collar clip your lead also to the choke chain as a back up. Rivets will make weak points in the collar and most I have seen broken have torn at the rivets. The best collars are put together with glue and stitching.
 
Leads:
Materials used can be heavy duty webbing, canvas and leather for a strong lead. I prefer to have a 5 foot lead with heavy duty brass snap secured with glue and stitching. I recommend that you do not use rivets at all in a lead as most are only I inch wide and rivets will pop out or provide a weak point for the leather to rip. The handle can be stitched or you can have another snap and ring to make a handle. The advantage of this is for securing the dog to a fence or with a second ring in the middle of the lead you can adjust the length.
 
Muzzle:
The best muzzle by far is the riot muzzle, the leather basket type muzzle is a work of art allowing the dog to fully open his mouth and drink. The muzzle has excellent ventilation and you have the option of with or without a front metal plate. The muzzle will allow you to safely walk through crowds or take the dog to the vet for a check up. The muzzle is also used for attacks on a decoy without any protective clothing.
 
Pinch collar:
 
The pinch collar can be used instead of a choke collar but still connect the choke chain to the lead with the pinch collar. In most cases you will not need a pinch collar for your dog. The pinch collar will allow you to use softer corrections on the dog and is excellent to stop the dog pulling on the lead. As most patrol dogs have a strong character and high pain tolerance the pinch collar can get the dog under control very quickly. It also works well when the dog is stimulated and you need some extra control or enforcing the out exercise.
 
Can I let my dog off lead in public places?
If your dog is trained as a protection dog the answer is a definite NO. Local authorities have special dog zones for exercise but before you even consider letting your dog off lead ensure that the dog is people and animal friendly. If your dog is security trained then you must be responsible enough to always at all times ensure the dog is secured on lead or in a dog proof yard. Remember you have a great companion that will protect you and the family and you must always protect the public to avoid any accidents.     
 
Are electric collars cruel or OK?
There are a lot of opinions in regards to electric collars, mostly you will hear about non factual and misleading information depending on the agenda of the organization. Animal cruelty organizations will try to convince you that the collars are barbaric and cruel. Professional dog trainers will try to convince you that they do not work as they will lose a lot of business in obedience and problem solving programs.
Electric collars can be cruel if used incorrectly however used correctly they are one of the most humane ways of training a dog. As you have a remote control to give the dog a pulse you can mark the behavior at the exact moment and the dog will associate it with what he was doing and not at the handler. I have seen many dogs over the years ruined by owners or put down because of a simple problem that can be fixed. If the dog nuisance barks at night most owners will go out and hit or yell at the dog, this will make the dog scared of the owner, vocally dominated and more stressed. The bark collar will give a pulse automatically at the exact time the dog barks. In most cases you can fix the problem with as little as three pulses or by leaving the collar on over night.
The collars as a training tool are invaluable giving the trainer fast and refined results in obedience, protection and even tracking. In problem solving you can stop a dog chasing horses, bait proofing, digging holes and many other training applications. Any person who wants to use an electric collar for training their dog should get training advise from a professional trainer and private lessons. The electric collar is as humane or cruel as the person in control of the remote.